For the final day of Men’s Tailoring Week, No.23 is being taken over – in the most elegant way imaginable – by venerable Savile Row fashion house, Hardy Amies. We caught up with the brand’s super-cool new Creative Director, Claire Malcolm, to talk shell suits, Elvis and Turkish Delight.
*What is your first memory of wearing a suit? Did your father wear suits?
My first memory of wearing a skirt suit was when I worked as a bar manager at a golf club when I was 18. I don’t really remember my dad wearing suits when I was younger. He was a Formula 1 photographer and suits aren’t the most practical of garments for a pit lane!
*How did you get into menswear? What was your first big break?
After graduating from university, I moved to Japan for a while – then on my return to London I met Kim Jones. That’s when my menswear education really started!
*Who is your all time sartorial hero? Who makes tailoring looks cool?
I really don’t have a particular sartorial hero, I’m much happier being surprised by people you see out and about. Bill Nighy always looks cool though!
*What makes tailoring modern today?
Proportions are key. I think the super-skinny lapel/tie now looks dated, proportions are becoming bolder. Internal construction is so important; maintaining shape through a full-front canvas and still keeping the garment light and comfortable is vital. Obviously fabric selection is really important; I always think understated fabrics look more expensive, even though they can be quite complex, especially checks.
*What’s your favourite style era and why?
I love the 1930s for the glamour and sense of freedom born out of such oppression after WW1. This period constantly inspires.
*Living or dead: who would you most like to see wearing one of your suits?
Elvis Presley, but transported back to the 1930s!
*What’s your top tip for keeping a suit looking good and lasting a lifetime?
Find a trusted and well respected dry-cleaner, pay a bit more if necessary – otherwise it’s a false economy!
*What is your most memorable style blunder? Is there photographic evidence?
I remember owning a bright pink and purple shell suit when I was 8 and I thought I was the bomb! We all had to wear it to be photographed with an Olympian trampolinist that visited our school. Honest.
*What is your number one style rule?
Own your own style.
*What do you think defines a real gentleman? And what does a gentleman never do?
A real gentleman is aware of all his actions and their implications! A real gentleman never finds Bernard Manning a role model!
*What’s your guilty pleasure?
Turkish Delight!
*Single or double breasted?
Double-breasted.
*Star Wars or Lord of the Rings?
Star Wars any time.
*What is the best gift you’ve ever received?
A chopper-styled bike my dad made for me when I was 6: it was amazing
*What would you save from a burning building?
Depends on what’s in there, of course!