Jonathan Saunders' super cool Spring/Summer 2013 collection
The inaugural London Collections proved when it comes to menswear, Britain is as cool as the proverbial cucumber. Sandwiched post-Jubilee and Pitti Uomo, it provided a light, tasty snack which left editors and buyers feeling they’d nicely hit the spot in terms of grazing on spring/summer 2013 trends. Despite the ambitious figure of 48 shows in three days, the vibe stayed relaxed and like the weather, sunny.
The launch on Thursday at St James’ Palace was regal. Why use a celebrity when you can use a royal, and channeling this season’s double-breasted suit too. Tommy Hilfiger, Tinie Tempah and David Gandy, could but look on in awe at HRH, The Prince of Wales modeling Savile Row at its finest.
Friday’s talking point – besides Topman’s design director, Gordon Richardson’s catwalk debut at Oliver Spencer – was how many ‘frowers’ (that’s the front row lot in case you don’t speak fashion) were rocking current season prints. Our favourite was David Waters, Associate Style Editor of Men’s Health, who wore the Burberry Prorsum ikat shirt that he’d bought from Matches only a couple of days before…
Richard Nicholl's Spring/Summer 2013 collection
Washed-out pastels were the big colour story, with biscuit as the, er, base neutral. Biscuit was big at Richard Nicoll, who showed cashmere knits interspersed with fizzy pastels. Biscuit also showcased the polarity of British styles re-working the bowler hatted businessman (in shorts and matching tailored jacket) at Hackett, breaking up bright knits at Topman, and cleansing the printastic palette at Jonathan Saunders where the Red Arrows soared overhead his venue of the Elms Lester Painting Rooms en route to their fly-past at Buckingham Palace for the Trooping of The Colour.
By the time Christopher Shannon brought the house down, blasting out Tulisa and Cheryl Cole for his finale, frowers were in party mood. “What struck me most about the weekend’s shows was the level of polish and professionalism in London menswear at the moment,” Stacey Smith, Matches’ menswear buyer tells us. “The timing of the shows meant that designers had to produce their collections weeks earlier than usual, yet they all rose to the challenge.”
E.Tautz's vibrant pinks
Stacey’s highlights include E Tautz’s exuberant, sporty offering, rendered in vibrant pinks, blues and yellows (“a perfect blend of tradition and modernity.”)
The Moroccan-inspired collection at Rake (where Rio and Anton Ferdinand sat front row) with it’s louche, dandyish quality, unstructured, relaxed tailoring and sumptuous colour palette; and Jonathan Saunders bold prints and textured jackets.
“I think it’s all about balance,” Sir Paul Smith told Suzy Menkes during their Q&A at the BAFTA theatre. “You need to embrace modern technology but you must also have aspects of the personal touch,’’ said the menswear fashion veteran who knows.
”I think what’s greeeeaaaat (drawled as only a Glaswegian can),” said Jonathan Saunders, “is that British designers are showing innovation in menswear but they are also showing a sense of reality that people can buy into.” We wondered who might be buying JW Anderson’s sheer lace shirts and bright pink jackets worn by bewigged models until the Richard James show on Sunday afternoon provided the answer. Frower, Elton John, resplendent in canary yellow specs, purple suit and Kermit-green metallic loafers, of course!