It’s occasion o’clock! What’s the dress code? Fabulously fashionable and formal you say? Yes, it’s possible to get three into one so long as you follow the rules. Ah yes rules. Although we British use the politely, euphemistic phrase, ‘dress code’, when referring to champagne-fuelled days out at Ascot’s Royal Enclosure or The Stewards Enclosure at Henley, what we are talking about here are rules.
Here at Matches we ‘do’ rules. For instance, did you know Ascot these days welcomes trouser suits (in matching material and colour cue Diane von Furstenberg’s many options) but strictly forbids fascinators, halter necks, midriffs, off-shoulder and dresses with straps less than one inch wide? Over at The Stewards Enclosure at Henley trousers are banned, along with above-knee hemlines (DvF’s timeless ‘Raven’ wrap dress is a solution?) but hats, although customary, are not required.
Over the years dress rules have blurred so much this June, Royal Ascot produces a style guide showcasing outfits deemed ‘suitable.’ Tellingly, they select a stunning black and white Antonio Berardi hourglass frock (with a Stephen Jones hat) for their 2012 campaign. Looking superbly on trend, not least super glamorous, it showcases just how much designers have re-written the rulebook on occasionwear; hauling it into the 21st century and injecting it with relevant trends. This season is about print; fizzy bright colours; lace; peplums and monochrome.
“Designers have been executing some great, modern looks adding coats and jackets which can be teamed with key pieces in the collection,” says Natalie Kingham, Matches’ International Buyer, and name-checking Berardi along with Dvf, Roksanda Ilincic, Jonathan Saunders and Erdem. “There is definitely a very strong trend surrounding dresses,” believes Kingham, “with great classic dresses in various prints, like Dolce & Gabbana’s aubergine cotton shift, which I would suggest you team with a green Lanvin trench – good for changeable weather – and yellow YSL shoes.”
“Giambattista Valli does a great occasion dress,” she advises. “Something like the simple chic white dress and brocade coat would be perfect for Ascot or a wedding. Lanvin draped dresses in bright colour pops that would work well for many occasions. Emilia Wickstead has perfect outfits for strict dress codes and she considers sleeves and lengths, and uses a neutral colour palette that makes colour accessories pop very well. DvF dresses like the lace ‘Zarita’ are perfect for so many events. Options include teaming a very dressy statement top with trousers.”
Finally, occasionwear tips include varying fabrics when you dress head-to-toe in one colour; varying colours in the same print, or working the same colour in clashing prints. Also check out mid-heel heights for days when you will be doing lots of standing. And don’t overdo hair and make up. Keep hair subtly glamorous, not rigid.
BY JULIA ROBSON