BY JULIA ROBSON
If only fashion was as easy as knowing what to wear, as opposed to how to wear it, too. This season, for instance, layering is key to pulling off not just the new shapes and proportions, but the effortless confidence of S/S 12 style too.
While the main story of the season has been graphic prints and super-bright colours, layering has contributed to the overall light, fresh, airy feel of the season, with its strong focus on futuristic tailoring and relaxed sportswear. It’s a look epitomised in the collections of Rag & Bone, DVF, Givenchy, Acne, Jonathan Saunders, Céline, Helmut Lang, Theyskens’ Theory and Stella McCartney. From the slim, cropped ‘pyjama’ trouser worn with athletic racer-back vest tops and soft blouses and blazers, to the new spin on sweater dressing, a combination of weightless fabrics in modern shapes worn one on top of the other has produced something very new indeed.
But does runway layering work in real life? Certainly, according to Ruth Chapman, joint CEO of Matches. “For me, layering is about comfort, ease and elegance,” she says. “The key ways to layer are with great shirts, silk t-shirts, or interesting tees (think Raquel Allegra’s frayed luxe vibe), worn under a fine-gauge, slightly loose-fitting cashmere, cotton or linen knit, with a relaxed-fit chino or skinny pant.” Given the frisky weather of spring, we might add that layering is also a particularly pragmatic wardrobe response.
Pefect layer: Freda's pale blue silk blouse
Chapman’s three favourite layering pieces currently are Freda’s silk shirt in blue or coral; Chloé’s ecru cashmere knit (“or their sweatshirt”) and L’Agence’s white boot-cut pant.
The ease of a sweatshirt: Chloe's ecru cashmere sweater
“Make sure the first layer is reasonably fitted and the next is a little bit roomier but not overly so,” advises Chapman. “Pants should be reasonably close to keep the look flattering, and don’t forget a lightweight coat. Burberry Prorsum is the obvious choice, but equally good are glamorous offers from Roksanda, Jonathan Saunders, Carven and MaxMara.”
See layering in action in our Spring Survival Kit.
